Harley-Davidson was keen to highlight the adventure credentials of the Pan America. A blast through far north Queensland’s notorious deep-water crossings, rocks, loose sand and tropical rainforests seemed like a good start.
The only way to get really wild on a bike north of Cairns, but to ensure all permits, insurances and local sensibilities are properly covered, is to tag up with Cape York Motorcycle Adventures (CYMCA). So on a warm, overcast morning, a line of bright, shiny Pan Americas awaited the attention of some very eager riders at CYMCA headquarters – some of whom weren’t so quite so bright and shiny as the bikes.
BIG CAST
Harley’s commitment to the project was highlighted by the inclusion of Harley- Davidson ANZ Managing Director Nigel Keough, who well and truly dived in at the deep end. It was Nigel’s first adventure ride, and he appeared gifted with all the welcoming polish and quiet competence of the bikes themselves.
Also on guest list were a few old timers, people like What Tradies Want’s editor and, it has to be said, CYMCA’s top man, Roy Kunda. Roy and TF had a wealth of war stories from rides of decades past which soon had the younger ones yawning and working busily on their phones. Also in the more senior – and sensible – section of the group were riders like long-time dirtbike legend and Harley dealership owner Wayne Leonard, Gav Hume and Jason Cochrane from the Harley Owners Group, and journo Phil Suriano.
The younger – and considerably sharperlooking – segment of the crew was made up of Harley dealer principal Brent Story, bike journo Dylan Ruddy, Channel 7 Sunrise weatherman James Tobin and H-D ambassador and ex-Nitro Circus rider, Emma McFerran.
Nigel and V8 Supercar driver Craig Lowndes seemed to easily bridge the generation gap, and Harley staff included supertech Dan Lesnock and Customer Experience Manager Ben Foster.
CYMCA support included Roy’s son Jordan – Jordy – and Craig ‘Tucks’ Tucker, who drove the support truck and offered the kind of catering which is a hallmark of every CYMCA ride.
It was a diverse group in lots of ways, but the love of riding and a desire to see whether the Pan America was for reals was common to all.
INTO IT
The first challenge was thrown down almost immediately. The rain began to fall as the entourage rolled out of CYMCA headquarters.
It wasn’t the kind of thundering downpour which can raise the level of a nor th- Queensland creek several metres in a couple of hours, but it was enough to make sure Black Mountain Road and the run to Mount Molloy were treated with respect.
It became obvious straight away the group consisted of some spectacularly wild and carefree riders – the young ones and Lowndsey – and some overly cautious and grumpy punters who kept wanting to pull up and say things like, “What does it mean when an orange picture of a brake stays on?”
Even with all the differences in riding styles and philosophies, the Pan America still managed to please everyone, and that was no small achievement.
FOBBED OFF
As the sun broke through at the Mount Molloy pub, and one passing truck playfully hooked up on the rear of another reversing from a parking spot and tore away large sections of bodywork, one of the camera guys emerged from lunch to find his DR-Z camera bike had a flat tyre. Before anyone could say, “Geez. I hope someone here will fix that,” Jordy had thrown the thing up against a tree, wrenched the rear wheel out, effected a repair and had the whole show ready to run again.
Unfortunately, in his effort to keep things flowing in the time-honoured CYMCA manner, Jordy had sent the other rider ahead on Jordy’s own Pan America. In a trap for young players, when the pair swapped back the other rider had the fob for the Pan America’s keyless ignition in his pocket. He’d disappeared into the dust before Jordy tried to start his bike and realised the situation. But these things happen, and with a little toing and froing, and perhaps a red face or two, it was soon sorted out.
At least Jordy had plenty of time to enjoy the view from the lookout.
DOWN AND UNDER
As the day progressed bikes and riders were confronted with fast-running causeways, a great deal of dust, some very long straight stretches of dirt road, incredibly beautiful rainforest sections and, in Craig Lowndes’ case, the attention of very enthusiastic fans at fuel stops.
Camp for the night was on the edge of the Palmer River, and that meant crossing the river itself. The slippery, rocky riverbed had the big bikes jolting and shimmying around, and even though a couple went under, the crossings were accomplished with a great deal of friendly pushing and yahooing and a minimum of fuss. When the video crew requested some riders repeat the crossing for the cameras, Harley tech Dan Lesnock won the admiration of all by adopting the attack position, barrelling into the rocky crossing with great enthusiasm and coming unstuck in a particularly deep and slimy section.
His muscle flexing as he emerged from the depths earned cheers from onlookers, as did the bike when it fired up without hesitation and completed the crossing.
FULL SERVICE
Camp that night was a CYMCA special. The big Isuzu support truck sat solid on the clean white sand and supplied music, light and a cavalcade of luxuries: cold drinks, hot drinks, a big variety of salads and, as the sun set, tender steaks cooked to perfection over the open fire. Riders who’d soaked in the gently flowing Palmer in the late afternoon discussed the bikes and the day’s riding, and the general disbelief there was still a place in world without phone or internet reception. That situation led to a few stories being shared and a few cold drinks consumed until, with the river murmuring away in the background, all bunked down to prepare for the following day.
ALL FOR ONE…
Leaving the Palmer River campsite proved a little more involved than the arrival, with the short section of deep sand proving a test for those not used to that type of terrain. Once again the riders banded together to ensure all were clear and on their way to the old gold-mining town of Maytown to soak up a little history.
By that stage the sun was beating down with true tropical force and heat and humidity, as opposed to the rain and cooler temperatures of the previous day, became potential problems which needed careful management. The Pan Americas were excellent in that situation. The big bikes were rock steady and easy to keep moving at a brisk pace over the seriously long, hot and dusty sections which followed.
The tiny town of Laura was the lunch stop and riders woofed into barra burgers while Nigel Keough showed his incredible personnel-management skill, which had no doubt played a major part in his success in a multinational corporation, by handing out icy poles to the parched and dusty riders.
WTW’s editor was totally blissed out by the Bubble O’Bill he received on that occasion.
As Lowndsey politely and cheerfully deflected the attentions of yet more fans, posing for numerous selfies and then beating a retreat with his customary good will and winning smile, it was decided to bolt for the Lion’s Den, just a short ride further on and an overnight stop which had everyone beaming with anticipation.
ROAR DEAL
As the bikes rolled into what must surely be one of north Queensland’s quirkiest and most memorable landmarks, dusty, stained riding gear was swapped for swimmers, cold drinks were grabbed, and most riders stampeded their way down to the croc-free swimming hole behind the Lion’s Den. Tucks had the support truck at DEFCON 5 and the cold drinks and luggage were dispensed at lightning speed as the stampede moved from the swimming hole to the hot showers. Night fell, the live music kicked off, and large pizzas and steak meals flowed from the Lion’s Den kitchen into the party atmosphere of the beer garden.
Oh yes. It was a big night that one, with many a bold and exaggerated tale bellowed across the garlic bread and calamari rings.
THE LATE TF
The final day was a short one to ensure everyone could make return flights, but it was also a highlight which included the Bloomfield Track.
Things got off to great start when the publican of the Lion’s Den casually mentioned he’d love a ride on a Pan America. The Harley folks nodded their approval, so Roy Kunda, a frequent visitor to The Den, said the publican should suit up in Roy’s gear, which was in his donga, and go for short blat.
The publican went to the wrong donga, suited up in Dylan Ruddy’s kit, and was nothing more than heat haze on the horizon when Dylan appeared wiping breakfast crumbs off his chin and asked, “WTF?”
A few bits and pieces had worked loose on a couple of the bikes and riders had settled in to where they had specific tunings they wanted, so Dan worked his way around the fleet to make sure everything was in good shape.
On an interesting side note, Craig Lowndes discovered on the first day the bikes were limited to 179kph. It was done to match the speed rating of the tyres, but it does make one wonder how Craig discovered that.
With Dylan back in his permanently redstained riding gear and breakfast dealt with, the cavalcade set out on the final leg.
There was an opportunity for some lunatic time on a beach which everyone enjoyed. Well…pretty much everyone. WTW’s editor distinguished himself by spearing arse-up into the soft sand leaving the beach, and then standing around with a camera to see if it would happen to anyone else. There were a few candidates, but when Emma McFerran made the exit look so damn stylish and smooth he dug his goggles out of the dune, spat out the remains of the sand and left in a huff.
Lunch at a swisho eatery in The Daintree was a colourful affair with reggae music, dreadlocks galore and a short power outage, followed by a glorious run along the coastline back into Cairns.
As a final escalation to the level of adventure, WTW’s editor somehow managed to get himself lost on the way into Cairns. He rode around in ever increasing circles until finally rolling in to CYMCA head office with all of about 10 minutes up his sleeve to make his flight. Jordy supervised a fast change of apparel and bundled TF into a waiting van, only to find the flight delayed by an hour.
SPIRIT
Lifestyle and freedom have always been Harley-Davidson catchcries and this ride, while it definitely put the Pan America through some serious, real-world adventure challenges, gave the riders the chance to embrace those ideals and experience the decades-old Harley culture in a fresh and contemporary setting.
Across the three days the bikes were hammered, dropped, dragged, bogged and submerged until there was nowhere left to hide, and they still came up trumps. Some bits and pieces vibrated off here and there, a couple of punctures slowed things up, and a few rear tyres finished up in poor condition.
But that happens on any adventure ride with 16 bikes.
As for the people, they were the best. What started out as a friendly group with a common interest finished up with a bond forged in mutual respect and the need to look out for each other.
And the catalyst for the whole thing was Harley-Davidson and the Pan America. Lifestyle and freedom at its best, for sure.